Carndonagh to Ballyliffin (Pollan Bay): (10.6 miles)

Today was one of the best days so far. All the danger and uncertainty and pain from yesterday faded into dim memory this morning when the sun came out. I ate a huge breakfast, beautifully cooked for me at the lovely B&B I stayed in last night. (I think I'll give a shout out to them all once I'm home). Sharon and Wilson, who owned it, could not have been more helpful and friendly. I was sad to go, but the drive to continue is so strong, I sometimes wonder if I've been temporarily possessed by somebody else. The drizzle that had started the day had gone by the time I left. I was feeling altogether more optimistic!

All the roads I walked today were busy roads with 80kmph speed limits - so of course most of the traffic was travelling faster than that! As soon as I left the safety of Carndonagh and its wide footpaths and started to head toward Ballyliffin, I knew that I would have to be hyper-vigilant. There was very little room at the side of the road to walk on and deep, deep ditches to my right next to the hedgerows. Basically if I stepped off the road to avoid being killed by a car and I stepped a bit too far or wobbled, I'd be up to my neck in mud and water. So I was careful.  I stepped off the road when there was oncoming traffic and walked along the grass verge when there was one. Big lorries and trucks were the scariest. I made slow progress because I was being careful and also because I had to keep stopping to get the weight off my shoulder. By lunch time I'd already reached my destination. Now check-in is normally at 3pm but I was desperate to get rid of the back pack so I could explore the area unencumbered. When I got to the turn off for the B&B I phoned and asked the landlady if she'd mind if I called in early - just to leave my backpack - and she said that everything was ready and she'd be more than happy for me to check in now.  Thanks the thing about Donegal people - they are incredibly kind and generous. I've never met people so friendly and helpful.  When I arrived she made me a cup of tea and we talked for a good hour.  She gave me brochures and recommended that I walk to Pollan Bay as there was a lovely path that ran right out to the headland.  Without the weight on my back the onward journey was easy. And the beach ... oh the beach was a find!

The sea was rough and full of the most energetic waves I've ever seen.

I'm sure that surfers must love this place.  Far out in the bay there stood a large rocky island bravely standing firm against the battering of the winds and sea. On either end of the bay were mountains (wee ones of course), standing brazenly against the forces of nature and providing shelter for the town.  The effect was stunning.

I walked the path quite a distance.  I was getting totally wrapped up in the energy and beauty of the place.  The moon was rising behind me, the sun was setting behind the mountain.

I took pictures and posted to Facebook and didn't really notice that the sun was sinking lower and lower. I think it was suddenly feeling cold that made me realise I really had to get going. I needed to find somewhere to eat and that road, which was scary enough in daylight, would be treacherous for a pedestrian at night. So reluctantly I made my way back to the village.  There was no way I could have a sit-down meal now if I had any hope of getting back to the B&B by dark.  Luckily the fish and chip shop had just opened. I wasn't at all hungry but figured I needed to eat something so I just got a bag of chips and ate as I walked out of town, straight from the paper bag all dripping with salt and vinegar.  They were delicious. Fat chips and sea air - you can't beat it!

The cars were starting to turn their lights on as I walked the final 1km to the turn off the main road. I brought a flashing red LED light that I attached to my coat and I had my phone torch on, as well as another little torch in my battery charger.  I was lit up like a Christmas tree. They must've done the trick because here I am, still alive.

Tomorrow is a big day. I'm going over the Memore Gap down toward Buncrana.  I think it'll end up being another marathon day. My blister did not survive intact when I removed the blister plaster tonight so it'll be interesting to see how it'll fare tomorrow.  As for my poor shoulder - well I may have a wee plan ... maybe.


Total miles to date: 71 miles.