Day 37: Belmullet to Blacksod (12.8 miles)

I woke at about 5am because I think my body is so anxious to get going in the morning it just can't sleep. Or something. Who knows? I did try to go back to sleep but got up around 6, got myself ready and left the Lodge by 6:30. At 7am I was parked up, geared up and off on my way from Belmullet to Blacksod at the very southern tip of the Mullet Peninsula. The docks in Belmullet looked beautiful and tranquil in the early morning light.

As I headed south the mountains of Achill Island, where I'll be walking next week kept me company the whole way. Sometimes a little grey shadow in the distance; sometimes, when the sun came out and shone on them, they were towering green eruptions from a the jade and blue sea. The view changed second to second. Every time I tried to take a photo the moment I was trying to capture had already gone.

As usual the flowers along the way, both wild and cultivated brought cheer when the sky turned dark and the wind was cold.

This area is known for its turf - the black sod is what turf is often called - and these sods are cut from the bog, dried in the sun and then used as fuel. I saw several lumps of it on the ground as I walked.

And still the views would take your breath away every time you turned another bend.

Today was a first for me because in my long-running issues with finding a bathroom, I had to knock on someone's door today and ask to use the loo. I won't go into the details... ahem ... let's just say, there was a need, the need was urgent. I took the only step available. The people of the house were no doubt amused but they were also very friendly and accommodating and I am eternally grateful to them.  I am also giving up sausages as I'm beginning to think they are the culprit. Moving right along ...

The beaches were incredible.

The closer I got to Blacksod the more of Achill I could see and - it's really BIG. I think the three days I was allowing myself may have seriously underestimated how long it will take to explore.

I started to worry about how little traffic there was on the road as I approached the pier.  I'd taken as may pictures as I needed so I decided that even if I didn't reach the pier itself, I would stick my thumb out and hitch the next time I saw a car. It was literally the next minute when a car pulled out of a driveway and came towards me. I duly stuck my thumb out and they stopped.

It was a retired couple who were on their way to Binghamstown to get the paper. They wouldn't be going as far as Belmullet but they were certain that I'd be able to get a lift no bother from Binghamstown. I was delighted with that. The lady who was the front passenger was very interested in what I was doing and although they don't have internet themselves she'd get her daughter and son to look me up and follow my adventures. They were a lovely, lovely couple and were a little worried for me, hitching on the road by myself but as I told them, this is how I've met some of the kindest people on my journey. It's not an everyday event but it's actually been quite successful so far.

At Binghamstown I said my thank yous and goodbyes and moved a little in front of the car as I put my thumb out again to signal the passing cars.  The gentleman who'd been driving the car had gone to shop to get the paper but his wife had remained in the car and had watched as I was passed by several times.  When he returned to the car they pulled up in front of me and I waved thinking they were just going to say goodbye before turning around. The lady rolled down her window and said, "Well! I'm ashamed that all those cars have left you and didn't stop to give you a lift.  That's just awful! Get in! We'll take you the rest of the way. I'm ashamed that they'd pass you like that!"

I tried to excuse them saying they might have been turning in a bit or they might be nervous of picking up hitch-hikers but she was having none of it. She was quite cross with them and she was determined that I shouldn't be on my feet (which were quite achy, it's true), for another minute longer. And so I got a lift the whole way back to Minty from the kindest couple in Blacksod who just happened to be in the first car I saw when I made the decision to turn back.

I didn't make it to Deirbhile's Twist which is a series of standing stones in the shape of a swirling pattern on the sculpture trail. Yesterday afternoon I'd gone for a drive and took these pictures as I figured it would be too far to walk today. So far it's my favourite one. I loved that you could walk all around it and be part of it all.

This sculpture was only created a few years ago but it looks like it's been part of the landscape for millennia. When I got back to my hostel I was exhausted. I had some lunch and decided to have a shower and get changed. I sat on the bed to take off my shoes and ... woke up two hours later.  I had to drag myself out of bed. 5am wake-up calls take their toll!

I was invited out to dinner by Padriac from the RNLI Ballyglass Lifeboat Station as a little thank-you for the fundraising. I had a very enjoyable evening in Talbot's in Belmullet and a very nice meal too. I have thoroughly enjoyed my time here in Belmullet meeting some of the staff and volunteers at the Inshore and Ballyglass stations. They have been so incredibly welcoming and supportive of me and I'd like to say a really big THANK YOU to them all.

Tomorrow I leave Belmullet. I've had a brilliant time here and I'll be sad to leave.  I especially like to thank Betty who owns and runs Kilcommon Lodge Hostel here in Pullathomas. She's been so kind and welcoming and I've had great time here with her this week.

Next week I'm moving south to Achill Island.  More adventure awaits!


Total mileage: 481 miles