Wild Atlantic Wanderer: Day 38: Keel to Doogort, Bunacurry and back to Keel (13.3 miles)

Let me start this by saying that Achill Island is one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited. It seems to have about four different climates going on simultaneously and has some of the most stunning scenery I've ever seen. My plan was to do three walks here: the one I did yesterday; a short 5 mile walk to Keem Beach today and another long walk tomorrow from Achill Sound to the southern tip of the Island and around to the Minaun Cliffs. The only thing was that the walk yesterday, siphoned every ounce of energy I had. It wasn't a particularly long walk (13.3 miles) or difficult terrain - the issue was within me. As the day wore on I developed sharp migraine headaches that felt like someone was stabbing my optic nerves. As anyone who has ever had a migraine will testify, the effect is on the entire physiology. By the end I could barely lift my feet. When I woke this morning the headaches had, thankfully, gone but my body was still stiff and achy and my energy levels were virtually non-existent. I got myself ready to go walk but as morning turned into the afternoon and I still couldn't drag myself out on the road, I decided to take the day off. I packed up the van and went for lunch instead. Hauling myself in and out of the van was an effort but I needed food and I couldn't face cooking. I went to Gielty's near Keem, where I ordered a ham, cheese, tomato and onion toastie, a cup of tea and a plate of chips (fries for my US friends). I didn't realise that I'd effectively ordered a meal of refined carbs and caffeine until it arrived on my table, especially as the sandwich came with a side order of crisps (chips for my US friends!). I ate it all. And with every bite I felt more human again. Clearly I needed carbs! As the afternoon has gone on, my energy levels have gone back to normal again. I feel reset. So I am good to go tomorrow!

So let me tell you about yesterday's walk. For a start it was very beautiful. Aside from the way I was feeling, it was actually a fairly perfect walk. Aside from the last 4 miles which were on a busy road I was on quiet boreens with gentle slopes that took me around some very large wee mountains and beautiful beaches.

I began the day right outside where Minty had spent the night on Keel Strand. It was a rather grey morning and the sea was rough but it was eerily beautiful.

When I turned away from the beach, the wee mountain I was to walk towards was barely visible under a thick duvet of cloud. It's name is Slievemore which translates as Big Mountain although at 750m it's a bit shy of being a mountain but it's the biggest of the numerous wee mountains on the island.

The road brought me right up to the base of Slievemore then it turned right and sensibly went around it. I could now look to my right and see a lake and the sea in the distance.

Nestled in the mountain were old abandoned houses almost reclaimed by the land.

I walked between Slievemore and Krinnuck, (which, at 268m was not nearly as imposing as its big brother but still I wouldn't have wanted to climb it) to Dugort and its golden, deserted beach.

Rush hour in Dugort!

To my left the sea was bright blue and I could just about make out the Mullet Peninsula .

And the hills of the Ballycroy National Park straight ahead.

Then another fantastic beach came into view.

I thought that I'd have no flowers to show you from this walk as the area between the wee mountains was very shaded and, although it was packed with every shade of green, very few shoots of colour could be seen. But as I left the beach and turned south the green was replaced by a large blanket bog and the flowers returned. The first thing I noticed was that the heather was starting to bloom.

I'd seen a lot of pink bog orchids but this was the first violet coloured one I'd come across. I love the way the fibres from the bog cotton draped across it.

It wasn't all flat bog - there was the odd lake too.

But the road was very long and by now I was fading.

When Keel finally came into view, I started to wonder if I'd actually get there.

But I did. Flat-footed, stiff and a little visually impaired, I made it back to Minty. At this point I should probably rant about the showers and the "kitchen facilities" in the campsite but sure, feck it, I got washed and I got fed so I won't get petty. I'm leaving in the morning so hopefully wherever I land tomorrow won't involve having to buy tokens for using everything!

I may not have walked to Keem Beach but I did drive there last Friday when I visited before I went home for the weekend. So here are the photos I took. I wish I'd made it there today but at the very least I can share with you the pictures of the best beach I've seen so far.