Thursday 11 August 2016

Day 60: Gallarus to Feohanagh to Boherboy to Gallarus (10 miles) and Day 61: Gallarus to Ballyferriter, Smerwick and back (10.1 miles)

My campsite for the the nights of 6th, 7th and 8th of August was at Gallarus. This was a handy place for me to explore the Dingle Peninsula. I woke up early on the morning of the 7th and turned right out of the campsite toward the sea. I took a little path that brought me directly on to a beach and I walked from there to a tiny village called Baile na nGall where I followed the Dingle Way coastal path northwards.







The sun was shining and the sky was blue. Aside from one man who was walking his dog on the beach, there wasn't a soul around.




The cliff path was incredible. I would take two steps forward and have to stop to take another picture. Seagulls dived and hovered on the wind and the waved crashed below me against the rocks. It was the most calm and peaceful stroll.




I mean ... would you just look!




Unfortunately in order to get back to base I had to turn inland away from the shore, once I reached Feohanagh. The road was straight and the mountains were beautiful but somehow when I walk away from the sea, the walk starts to feel like work. Like all fully operational loop-walks after a time I turned again facing back toward Gallarus.




The route I took brought me down a narrow lane that wasn't paved and I unfortunately stepped in a lot of very deep mud!

When I reached Boherboy I started to head downhill on a twisting road back toward the sea again. Two cyclists who appeared to be training for a race regularly looped past me at great speeds.

At Baile na nGall, I took the road back to the campsite rather than retracing my steps on the beach.  I reached the campsite at 12.15 in time to get washed up and go on the prowl for some lunch.


On Monday I was on the road by 7am. My plan was to do all the road walking before the tourists woke up and to return to base on the coast across the beaches. My first destination was Ballyferriter which was like a ghost town when I passed through. Not a soul to be seen but I did see a nice pub that did food so I made a plan to come back later for lunch!





A little way out of town I took a right turn toward the sea down beautiful roads with colourful flower-strewn hedgerows. As the sea came into view Ceann Sibéal appeared on my left. I assume this must feature in the next Star Wars movie because the café in Ballyferriter had Sibéal Wars painted on it in the iconic Stars Wars font.

The light of the morning was bleeding down from the clouds casting a de-Mille-esque quality to the surroundings. I half expected to hear a heavenly host at any moment.



I took some very narrow roads before coming out on my first beach. It seemed that as soon as my foot touched the sand it started to rain. It was still a lovely walk. The light changes every minute in Ireland and with it the intensity of the colours seem to wax and wain.




I saw lots of birds hanging out at the point where streams meet the sea. It must be a good place for tasty treats.



Eventually the coastal path brought me back to the beach I walked on a the start of my walk the previous day. A short mile down the road I was back at Minty and ready to go for an explore to see what the days ahead would bring.



Raising money for the RNLI on www.justgiving.com/Jane-Volker

Total mileage: 743.5 miles

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