Day 40: Doolin to Fanore (8.9 miles) and The Flaggy Shore Loop (4.3 miles)

As I mentioned in my previous post, I quickly discovered that the coastal roads in Clare are not a good place to be walking in the middle of the day in July, due to the heavy traffic and the narrowness of the roads so I have decided that I need to get up super-early and do my walk before everyone else gets up. That was why I was up at 05:30 on Monday morning, determined to get to Fanore before the working day started.

It was a pretty grey and miserable start with light rain falling sporadically but I ploughed on. The roads were clear as a bell and that made all the difference to me in terms of my stress levels (none) and how much I enjoyed the walk itself.

The road to Fanore weaves both inland with tree-lined sections and then along the coast with the sea lapping against the grey limestone flags of the Burren. As it was quite misty it wasn't very easy to see the Aran Islands in the bay but their silvery shadow on the horizon was a constant reminder.

The quiet roads and the eery greyness of the morning gave the walk a tranquil and sometimes other-worldly atmosphere but it began and finished without anything remarkable happening.  I was surprised and pleased to see the blue walls of O'Donoghues Pub appear in the distance much earlier than I'd expected. As I got closer the heavens opened again. (I'm beginning to think there is an Angel of Meteorology somewhere who thinks that's how I like to be informed of the end of my walks!)

I was about 20minutes early for the return bus to Doolin so I dried a little patch of a bench outside the pub and waited for the bus that was due at 09:25.  It arrived before quarter past and left with great haste as soon as I boarded. Clearly the bus schedule was just advisory and not meant to be taken as law.

I was back at the campsite by 10am as seeing as how my walk had been a bit shorter than I had thought, I decided that I would return to a section of the road between Kinvara and Ballyvaughan, called the Flaggy Shore and do a loop walk there. 

  



But first I went to a local cafe to get some breakfast. I had a delicious Eggs Benedict with bacon and I enjoyed it so much I decided to have a breakfast dessert. I recommend having a large latte and a berry and apple crumble served with cream and berry compote in a baked crust, after breakfast. Breakfast dessert should definitely become a regularity!        

I was finished so early that I felt no need to rush into another walk and upon arriving at the Flaggy Shore I just mooched about in Minty, checking emails and Facebook and watching showers come and go. Soon however I decided it was time to get started.

If I could describe a perfect walk then this one at The Flaggy Shore would surely be it. The road runs right next to the shore, it's flat and there is virtually no traffic on it. Perfection. Even when it swung around to go back to the starting point there was a lake with swans swimming serenely and another shore with views over the Burren and its rugged stony hills. It felt effortless and gave me a great boost.

The flowers of the day were particularly pleasant too.

 

I do love these lonely days where it's just me, the road and the weather. I get lost in my head but the lack of interaction with other people doesn't make it a particularly interesting read. Sorry! I do hope the pictures make up for it!

Raising money for the RNLI on www.justgiving.com/Jane-Volker

Total Mileage: 518.2 miles