I know this is the case. As I lie here in bed with my feet throbbing and my legs aching, I know my body has a point. Today I pushed it to over 18 miles. I had to. I messed up again. I was looking at Google maps for a reasonable stopping point when I realised that I'd factored my husband to be here for a day longer that he's going to be. I had huge problems with Google maps crashing my computer (it has a graphic interface issue) while I was trying to do an itinerary. I kept stopping and starting and I threw in the hat when my word document was lost when my computer decided to shut itself down. So I did it in my head and I clearly mucked it up because as I looked at the map today I realised I'd factored in 2 days to get from Fanad Head to Creeslough but I only had one. I therefore took the decision to not go to the peninsula North of Carrickart thereby saving myself 10 miles but I would have to do an extra 3 miles as well. Let's just say that my poor almost 50 year-old body was not best pleased.
"I keep telling you - 10 miles is plenty. That point when the ache appears in the middle of your back - that's me saying I'm done now. But do you ever stop? Oh no. You just keep saying, "Just five more miles, I've got to do at least 15 miles every day." Haven't you noticed that your feet start to hurt? Your ankles get shooting pains in them? That's me saying it's time to stop."
Ouchie.
The walk itself was through incredibly beautiful terrain. It took me inland a bit and in between two lakes. The weather wasn't too bad either - just two heavy rain showers the entire day. The roads themselves were very fast moving and I was on high alert a lot of the time. I became aware, about five miles into the walk that I wasn't appreciating what was around me. I knew that I had a long way to go, that the roads would be hard and that it would be hilly. I was treating it like an endurance event rather than, what it should be, a long gentle stroll in the country. I know that I won't have to worry about having to be at a certain point by a certain time, in the summer, but right now I do and it's taking a bit of a physical toll. But that said, I'm now back on schedule and tomorrow I should only have to go 15 miles. That should be OK.
One of the nicest things about walking in the Irish countryside at this time of year is seeing the animals and their babies out and about. I had a lot of conversations with lambs and their mothers one of whom actually sounded like she was saying "JAAAAANE". No really. It's true. I was very happy to see calves out in the field with their mothers. I find the practice of removing calves from their mothers after birth to be utterly barbaric. so scenes like this (yes - even with the chap in the back openly disrespecting the camera) to be lovely.
Today's walk took me inland and between two lakes, which surprisingly, given that it's just more water, had a completely different vibe to the coastal walks. For a start the wind was different - gentler, more civilised. I'm not sure if I prefer it though I can attest to the fact that the midges and the hover flies did. Yes! The little buggers are out already! I am told it will get much, much worse in the summer. Still hoards of flies mounting kamikaze missions toward my mouth and nose wasn't the most pleasant part of the day. But I have to say that the views were just stunning.
Unlike the Inishowen peninsula where there were little banks at the side of the road where I could sit any time I fancied taking the weight off, this particular area has fences and hedgerows and hence nowhere to just stop. On top of that the roads are busy and with traffic passing at 80 km/h about a foot from where I am, I don't feel inclined to stop. So it was just over 11 miles into my walk today before I got the chance to sit.
I did manage to get off the busy road for a mile or two. Aside from the fact they are generally more aesthetically pleasing -
- these roads also offer the opportunity for brief interactions with the locals.
ME (to gentleman walking on the opposite side of the road): Lovely day, isn't it?
HIM: That'll be the weather.
When I reached Carrickart. I had a very welcome sit-down in a cafe with wifi (ah wifi how I miss you!). Bliss.
Carrickart is a lovely little town with an interesting range of shops and several surf schools which offer classes like yoga, pilates and other land-related activities. Although quite small it had three large churches - Presbyterian, Church of Ireland and Catholic. I could not see how such a small little place could fill these huge places of worship but I suppose the summer must bring a lot of tourists in, who wouldn't dream of taking a Sunday off while on holiday. One of the curious things I noticed about the churches in the area is that the bells are not locked up in a tower but sitting outdoors in the elements. I found them to be quite beautiful. I imagine they're quite loud when you give them a bash. Or perhaps they're simply decorative as so many churches use recording of bells these times.
The next part of the journey was grueling. I'd already received my ten-mile warning from my back and my feet chimed in for the rest of the trek. On the plus side I was so in the zone to get finished I kind-of temporarily lost my fear of the traffic. I just ploughed on and expected them to get out of my way. I'm not sure if it's a sensible strategy, but it worked a treat.
Here are a few photos of the places I passed.
As I dragged my tired feet towards Creeslough and old man carrying a loppers crossed the road to say hello. He was intrigued by the woman in the funny hat and the big orange tent.
HIM: You're dressed well for the rain, aren't you?
ME: Yes I am, and it has the added advantage of making me very visible to the cars on the road.
HIM (laughing): No, they can't miss you in that! It's a grand rig-out, no doubt!
And there you have it. My poncho, hat and waterproof trousers are a "grand rig-out". No doubt.
Total mileage: 170.1 miles
Such beautiful scenery!
ReplyDeleteI love the lambs. And the locals. Glad you made it safely.
I don't know why it was such tough going that day. I guess there will always be ups and downs along the way - in my mood as well as the road itself.
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